Hot To Get Clearer Skin

Breakouts are your biggest beauty gripe, according to a Self.com survey. And acne is not exclusive to teens. Eleanor Langston from Self Magazine is here with simple strategies to help you uncover the glowing complexion you crave.

Experts say there is a genetic component to acne that can be passed down from both sides of the family. As well, a lack of shut eye doesn't directly lead to acne, but fatigue makes you more susceptible to becoming overwhelmed and tense which does trigger breakouts.

Of course it's crucial to remove makeup, but did you know your cell phone can trigger a breakout?
• Friction overload - Anything rubbing against skin (such as an iPhone glued to your cheek or a bike helmet pressed against your sweaty forehead) can lead to irritation of the hair follicles at the base of each pore, causing inflammation or bumps called papules. Switch to Bluetooth and slip a bandanna under your helmet.
• Subpar cleansing - If you hit the hay without washing your face, the day's grime can make its way into pores. Your body initiates an inflammatory response to fight off bacteria, leading to a small, pink, pus-filled bump called a pustule. Massage in cleanser for at least 30 seconds to remove makeup completely.
• Constant picking - Manhandle or otherwise mess with bumps and blackheads and you risk pushing oil and dirt deeper into skin, creating an even bigger blemish and possibly a scar. Worse, if you rupture the clogged pore, you could wind up with a cyst (a pustule beneath the skin's surface that becomes swollen and inflamed).

First Line of Defense: Over the counter skin-care arsenal.
• St. Ives Apricot Scrub Blemish & Blackhead Control, $4; doubling up on products could irritate skin.
• DermaDoctor Ain't Misbehavin' Medicated Emergency Acne Spot Treatment, $36.
• Zeno Mini, $89. Aim the metal tip at your zit to hit the area with heat.
• Malin+Goetz Acne Treatment, $22.
• Clinique Acne Solutions Clearing Concealer, $14. Apply a bit with a brush to avoid a cakey look.
• Origins Brighter by Nature Skin Tone Correcting Serum, $40.

Top 3 prescriptions: If using OTC blemish fighters isn't cutting it, try these Rx.
• Powerhouse retinoids- Prescriptions such as Retin-A and Differin (as well as less irritating non-Rx versions) encourage regular cell turnover. That's a good thing because if oil doesn't clog pores, bacteria can't thrive.
- Antiaging bonus: Retinoids stimulate collagen and exfoliate, so skin looks younger and brighter, too.
• Hormone helpers - Birth control pills reduce androgens and increase levels of a protein that stymies male hormones in your system. But in some women, the Pill can spark pimples merely by changing the balance of hormones. If breakouts don't improve in a few months, talk to your doc, as you may have an underlying medical condition.
• Pore-cleaning devices - Photopneumatic therapy such as PPx or Isolaz uses both suction (to draw out pore-plugging debris) and intense pulsed light (to blast bacteria). The pro procedure also helps get rid of blackheads, although admittedly at a price: Treating the entire face runs from $100 to $300 a session, and you'll likely need four to eight weekly treatments, then a follow-up every one to three months.

Last Line of Defense: Oral antibiotics & Photodynamic therapy
• Oral antibiotics - These meds (e.g., minocycline) attack bacteria from within and can clear up acne in a month or two, although the potential side effects-yeast infections, sun sensitivity, developing treatment-resistant bacteria-mean they're not right for everyone. For those with severe or cystic acne, however, these prescriptions can work wonders.
• Photodynamic therapy - If you'd rather not pop a pill, ask about PDT. Your doc applies a solution that cells within the oil glands then absorb. Next, a blue light is used, and its heat constricts or possibly destroys the glands, along with bacteria. It sounds scary, but it's painless (although some experience redness for up to a week afterward). Worried about drying out your skin? There are so many oil glands in the face that you can't get them all. PDT is pricey, though (about $550 a session), and three or four sessions are required along with maintenance every three to four months.

For more skin solutions and breakdown of the best products on the market, check out the latest issue of Self Magazine or visit self.com.